Hello, and thanks for opening. Nice to see you here.
Longtime listeners know that weekend editions of Butter are science-free and content-light: there’s nothing here today but a recipe, because weekends are not for working. This recipe is a simple one, but made with ingredients you’re not likely to have on-hand, so I hope this gets to you before you hit the shops. There are plenty of subs and swaps you could make, if not, and all you’d lose is my stubborn commitment to rings and circles and loopy shapes (scroll down; you’ll see).
If this one doesn’t appeal to you, that’s ok; I know it’s not for everyone, despite being very vaguely like grownup Spaghetti-Os. But if real Spaghetti-Os are more your speed, there’s always this.
Have a good weekend. xo.
Calamarata ai Calamari
I do not speak Italian even a little bit.
Calamarata is - perhaps you guessed - a tubular pasta that is cut into thick, wide rings to mimic the shame of sliced squid (calamari). I know - I know - that, unless fried and served with aioli, squid can be a hard sell, but hear me out: squid is relatively neutral in flavor (and smell!), crazy rich in protein and omega-3s, easy to source, and cheap as hell. It’s only unpleasantly chewy when overcooked, and I won’t let you do that, so, consider giving it a shot.
» Not sold? NBD: any kind of shellfish would work here, or a meaty fish (like swordfish!) cut into chunks, or even some thin slices of veal or lamb.
» Feel free to swap in more oil - or even a tablespoon of coconut milk - for the butter.
» Any ground smoked pepper will work, here, or a favorite spice blend - a great red curry powder, even (especially with that coconut milk).
» I love this with sliced Castelvetrano olives tossed in at the last moment - I just forgot them for photographs - so consider giving those a go.
» My commitment to the O here was tireless, but you can of course use a regular onion or some shallots instead of a leek; any shape of pasta; a regular old Bell pepper; any fresh herb. You don’t have to die on my hills.
» This serves two, but you can double it - or halve it - easily. The need for accuracy on these ingredients is not dire, so just eyeball it.
Ingredients
1/2 pound of calamarata pasta
1/2 pound of fresh squid (I used “tubes,” only - feel free to use tentacles, as well) - frozen is fine, if that’s what you can find
olive oil
a few cloves of garlic, peeled and crushed
1 teaspoon of ground white pepper
1 teaspoon of smoked hot paprika
1 small/medium leek, peeled and sliced into coins (white and light green parts only)
1/2 pound (7-8 pieces) of small, sweet peppers (often sold as “snacking peppers”), sliced into coins (stem ends discarded)
a knob of butter
fresh lemon wedges, a dry light wine, or champagne vinegar (optional)
minced fresh chives, for garnish
Instructions
Prepare the calamarata per package instructions. Season that water, please!
Slice the tubes of calamari, if not sliced already. Place them into a bowl of warm, well-salted water to brine while the rest of the dish comes together and set aside.
In a large skillet, warm the oil, garlic, and spices over medium heat until everything gets fragrant and sizzly. Add the sliced leeks and peppers, toss to coat in the spiced oil, and then arrange in a single layer (as much as you can; it’s ok if there’s overlap, even considerably). Allow them to cook, undisturbed, for 5-7 minutes, until they begin to crisp and color, then toss and repeat.
Meanwhile, drain the squid and pat dry. Drain the pasta when it’s done, as well, and (as always) reserve a bit of pasta water for later. You’re not cooking the pasta for long in the saucing pan, so for this recipe, you don’t need to worry about over-cooking.
When the peppers and leeks are caramelized and tender, deglaze the pan with a squeeze of lemon (or a small splash of vinegar, or a large splash of wine), then add the hot pasta to the skillet with the butter and a few tablespoons of pasta water. Toss and stir rapidly to create a glossy pan-sauce. Add the calamari and a sprinkle of salt, and toss/stir again in the hot pan sauce, adding more pasta water a splash at a time if necessary. The calamari are done when they turn opaque and just begin to curl their edges outward: it will only take about a minute.
Remove from the heat, taste and adjust for seasoning, and serve immediately, with the chives and some more lemon. This is great - even if you must skip the squid - with grilled, charred bread.