Thus far the theme of 2022 seems to be some wild combination of “exposure-quarantining” and “virtual-schooling” - and I know I’m not alone - so I’m taking it easy on all of us, today: not much for me to write, not much for you to read; in all, it should only take you about 6 minutes. There’s a recipe for Clam Chowder Risotto (which could also be a recipe for Just Clam Chowder, if you wanted it to be - or, alternately, Any Chowder Risotto; options!), as well as a smidge of discussion about how we define and understand both. There’s also a Reader Q. about French toast, but which is really about cinnamon. No section of Links, this week, but it’ll be back in an upcoming issue, which is (you won’t believe me, but I’m so serious) a much-requested discussion about… tofu.
xo.
Reader Q.
The Q.: “I like to make bread pudding and French toast for my kids with leftover bread, and when I add cinnamon to the mixture, it always becomes a clumpy, lumpy mess. I’d really like to get this right.” - G.H., Wexford, PA
The A.: First, some science! Cinnamon is hydrophobic - a word that literally means “afraid of water” - and when you try to dissolve it in a water-based liquid (the enemy), the particles of cinnamon powder huddle together and take advantage of the surrounding air to create a protective barrier of surface tension, making your custard base super clumpy: those clumps are little islands of cinnamon particles just doing their best to stay dry. Annoying, but fortunately, easy to fix or avoid entirely. My favorite solution: whisk the cinnamon and a pinch of salt or sugar into the eggs first, before adding any of the other ingredients. Cinnamon is hydrophobic, but lipophilic - meaning it loves fat - and the fat in egg yolks will encourage the cinnamon to incorporate smoothly. (As an added bonus, both salt and sugar will gently denature some of the stiff proteins in egg whites, and their granules will create friction while whisking - all things that not only ensure a smooth cinnamon distribution, but also help you avoid those boogery strands of egg white that can plague some custards when eggs are added later, rather than whisked first).
Clam Chowder Risotto - but first…
… what is chowder? And what is risotto? Let’s dispense with a few common misconceptions about the rules (mostly because I’d like to avoid hate-mail).
Chowder is - what? “A creamy seafood soup,” only that’s not quite right, is it?, because no one would ever call Lobster Bisque a “chowder,” and that definition also leaves our good friend Corn Chowder out in the cold. So maybe “seafood” is negotiable, but what then do we do with the “Cream Of” category: can we get away with calling them Mushroom Chowder, and Chicken Chowder? (No.) Also, while “creamy” is a commonly accepted descriptor, there are also millions of people (I’m not one of them) who recognize Manhattan Clam Chowder as a legitimate specimen, despite being tomato-based and containing not a whiff of dairy. “Creamy,” in and of itself, can even be a little misleading: some recipes call for real cream, while others thicken with béchamel (flour cooked with milk) or even crumbled crackers or dry bread. Some contain pork (by way of bacon, or salt pork, or pancetta) and insist that it is a must-have, but that alone can’t anchor a soup or stew solidly into the “chowder” category. Chowder: she’s a puzzler.
If you’re wondering, there isn’t, actually, a right answer here - what defines a true chowder is fiercely debated (in Rhode Island, clam chowder is clear). I’m just illustrating the many ways by which we might each define “chowder,” because I know it’s a deeply intimate thing for some. For my part, “chowder” has two rules: cream (Sorry, RI), and potatoes. The “potatoes,” to me, are an obvious must: their presence solves all of the bisque/cream-of/chowder discrepancies. And the cream? I know cream triggers a knee-jerk of horror for some, but I defend it’s richness here: a little goes a long way. What’s more, cream has a much lower sugar content than milk and wheat - and when we’re celebrating things like fresh, summery corn or tiny sweet clams, I prefer to let their inherent and unique sweetnesses shine, rather than force them to compete.
And while we’re on the subject of cream, it never fails to surprise many that traditionally, risotto doesn’t contain any. While recipes and restaurants have come to rely on dairy to short-cut their risottos, that silky sauce enrobing the rice can be achieved with just stock or broth (or, if you’re really going for a blank slate, even water). The high starch contents of most short-grain rice varieties will thicken a liquid without much work; to bust yet another myth of the dish, you don’t need to commit to hours of constant stirring. A few check-ins on the pot with your spoon will suffice, and if you’re one to prefer it you can even make it in an Instant Pot.
Why put the two together? Marrying these two traditionally rich dishes actually lightens the final product:
» Rice thickens the chowder broth beautifully, without bringing with it the sweetness of milk or flour. Nothing gets in the way of the clean brininess of the clams.
» The rice thickens so well, in fact, and creates such a lush sauce, that we can use much less cream than called for in many chowder recipes - we’ll add just enough for silkiness.
Clam Chowder Risotto
Makes two massive servings, or four smaller ones. Takes ~45min.
Ingredients
1/2 pound diced bacon or cubed pancetta (optional)
thinly sliced garlic - see Notes
1 small (baseball) onion, diced
2-3 stalks of celery, diced
1lb (about 5-8 small) waxy potatoes, diced
1 cup short-grain rice (Arborio or Carnaroli, ideally, but any short-grain gets the job done)
2 tsp Old Bay seasoning (haters can please see Notes)
cracked black pepper
1/2 cup dry light wine (white, pink, sparkling)
1 quart of clam juice or prepared clam stock (see Notes)
1 pound of clam meats, whole or chopped, with juices (see Notes)
a tablespoon or so of de-stemmed thyme leaves (or half as much dried)
salt of your choice
1/2 cup of heavy cream, divided
1 cup of fresh corn kernels (optional)
Instructions:
Sauté the bacon over medium-high heat in a large Dutch oven or your heaviest pot.
Once the bacon is almost done, add the sliced garlic and fry for 2-3 minutes more until both the bacon and garlic chips are crispy. Strain bacon & garlic with a spider or slotted spoon onto paper towels and set aside. Carefully discard of all but 1 tablespoon (or so; no need to measure) of the rendered bacon fat from the pot. (If not using a pork product, start here, and just use 1T or so of your choice of oil.) Add onions and celery, and sauté until they start to turn translucent and brown at the edges, 5-7min.
Add the rice and Old Bay seasoning, along with a few cracks of black pepper, and sauté 2-3 minutes more. The bottom of your pot should now have a nice coating of spicy, bacon-y fond, and the rice should start to look toasty and translucent.
Deglaze the pot with the wine, taking care to scrape up all of the browned bits on the bottom before moving on to the next step. Allow the wine to nearly cook away/absorb into the rice.
Add potatoes and clams along with any packing juices, as well as all of the clam juice/stock and the thyme. Stir and allow to come just to a boil, then reduce heat to low and simmer, covered, for about 30 minutes, stirring every ten minutes or so.
When the rice is no longer al dente and the potatoes are fork-tender, stir in 1/4 cup of heavy cream (and the corn, if using) and simmer, uncovered, for an additional 10 minutes.
Taste for seasoning, and assess texture. Different varieties and brands of rice, clams, seafood stocks, and bacon will all behave in varying ways, here: some will have more or less salt than others, and some will absorb more or less water. You might want a thick, porridgy risotto, and perhaps your rice didn’t get there: just keep simmering, and it will. Perhaps your risotto is rich and thick, and you’d like something brothier: just add more stock, cream, or water until you’re pleased. Does it need salt? Add it. Do you like more spice? Go for more Old Bay, or even some hot sauce or cayenne or your favorite crushed dried pepper. Do you want it to be even creamier? Add more cream, and a little butter. Like I said: chowder means something different to everyone. Even when our mileage varies as a result of different ingredient purchases, you can still easily tweak it to make it your own.
Serve hot, topped with the reserved crisped bacon and garlic.
And as always, the Notes:
» If you want to skip the pork, no problem. If some diners enjoy pork, you could make some crispy prosciutto in the oven to serve on the side, instead.
» I don’t call for a quantity of garlic because I’m largely convinced that when it comes to garlic, and to vanilla, people use as much as they want anyway. Carry on.
» I am from Maryland, and Old Bay is gospel. If you cannot abide: you can use your preferred spice blend, or simply omit it.
» There are a lot of options for the clam juice/stock: bottled juice is easier to find, but will be pricier, because you’ll need a few bottles to get to a full quart depending on brand. If you have the time, clam stock base/bouillon is a better option - you can usually find it at seafood shops, or online. And if you have trouble, you could swap in fish stock or lobster stock. No biggie.
» Shucked clam meats can be bought at most seafood shops by the pound, and will come with some juices. But if you don’t have a good seafood market nearby, canned clams are not a scary option: they’re very tender and sweet. Bar Harbor and Snow are great options, and both are MSC-certified for sustainability.
» If you like super tender, delicate clam meat in your chowder, feel free to add it at the end, with the corn and cream. I actually enjoy a little toothsome chew, so I add it sooner.
» Similarly, if you prefer chewier bacon to crisp, add it to the chowder at the end, with the corn and cream, so that it can rehydrate a little.
» Not into clams? This would work with shrimp, cubes of fish, scallops, crab meat, or mussels, too.
» Just want a good recipe for chowder, no rice involved? Omit the rice and double the potatoes, and simmer for an extra 10 minutes: the potatoes will start to crumble just enough to add some body and substance to the broth, and you can increase it by taking a few gentle passes through your pot with a potato masher. As chowders go, it will be on the brothier - but tastier - side of things. Like so: