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Happy Monday? We’re staring down the barrel at a long one, some of us: the typical mania of a 5-day work week, with the added gymnastics of planning and prepping for a celebratory family meal. (Maybe - also - while you’re kids are home for Spring Break.) (Sob.) Whatever your week(end) might look like - prep for Easter, or Passover, or both (like me), observation of Ramadan - I thought something fresh and simple would be welcomed. Today’s issue is brief - it should only take you about 4 minutes to read. Enjoy.
See you next week for the long-awaited meatball. xo.
Reader Q.
Question: “What do you really hate, or flat out refuse, to eat?” - J.T., via Instagram
Answer: I hate - hate - rosemary. It has the texture of wet sticks, and it tastes to me like a flowery soap doused in Sweet & Low (which, while we’re at it, I also dislike). I’m also actually not a huge fan of some offal; I’m a huge proponent of using as much of an animal as possible, but I have convinced myself that I can taste the physiological function of some organs. So while I understand that some people appreciate kidneys, for example, I eat them and my brain says, “This thing made pee!” (In related news, I am usually but not always fun to take to dinner.)
I don’t usually answer personal questions like this here, just because: who cares? But I thought this was an interesting prompt: I’d love to hear what you hate to eat - and conversely, too, the weird things you LOVE to eat but perhaps wouldn’t readily admit to. I think it would make for a really interesting and fun issue down the road. Email me! Seriously. I’d love to know.
Okonomi-Sabzi
For this week, this also comprises the Links section.
If you’ve never heard of okonomi-sabzi, you’re in the majority! (I made it up.) This combines two of my favorite ways to dispatch an excess of leafy greens:
» Okonomiyaki is a quick, pan-fried cabbage pancake from Japan. Okonomi means, roughly, “customizable,” or “personal preference” - meaning that variations with regard to personal preference are clearly welcome! - and yaki means “grilled” or “scorched,” referring to the deeply flavorful, sweet flavors that the cabbage develops courtesy of the piping-hot griddle or pan the okonomiyaki is made on.
» Kuku Sabzi, on the other hand, is an Iranian egg-based dish - more of an omelet than a pancake, but still laden with crisp-tender greens. Kuku is the Persian word for egg dishes made in the style similar to frittatas, and sabzi refers to the filling: loads of fresh, tender, spicy herbs.
» For okonomi-sabzi, I’m pulling the best of each traditional dish together into one: I love the texture and taste of all of those greens and herbs in the kuku, and I also appreciate the presence of eggs: their inherent fats and proteins make for a meal that satisfies longer than grain flours do. But the depth of flavor achieved by caramelizing fresh green cabbage is hard to pass up - so here, we’re inviting it over from okonomiyaki territory to join the kuku party.
» Any of these dishes - my version here, or either of the traditional originals - would be worth making this week: they’re light and fresh and taste of spring, but what’s more, they’re easy to make ahead and are wonderful at any temperature, making them great additions to a crowded brunch or holiday meal, or lovely things to make for just yourself, to have ready to go when breaking your fast or when you have a few spare moments between stuffing Easter baskets and doing latke math.
» The cabbage and the piles of fluffy, herby greens are both musts, here, but don’t feel that you need to stop there: add some shredded zucchini, carrots, or ginger; fresh corn or frozen, tiny peas; crispy bacon, pancetta, smoked or marinated tofu. You could even add heartier things for heft, like tiny cubes of potato or hard squash - just steam or sautee them first, as the cook-time here isn’t long enough to soften them.
» The best part of all is the customizable service: okonomiyaki is traditionally served with Kewpie mayo and okonomiyaki sauce, both of which would be welcomed here and are easily found at most Asian grocers and large supermarkets. Kuku is often served with plain yogurt or crumbled fresh feta, a shower of fresh herbs or pomegranate seeds. And since you’re combining both dishes, you can use all of the above: set out a spread and let everyone dress their slices to their liking. Some other great toppings and condiments to offer and try: wasabi Kewpie, sesame seeds, fresh ginger-cilantro sauce, hummus, pickled ginger or vegetables, shredded nori, furikake seasoning, bonito flakes, sour cream, Japanese or Korean barbecue sauce, kimchi, pickled onions, sauerkraut. Top it with a fried egg - eggs on eggs! Who’s gonna stop you?
Okonoki-Sabzi
Makes 4-8 servings, just depending on the size and how they’re served.
Ingredients
6 eggs - see Note
1T all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon of baking powder
1T water
1 teaspoon EACH of the following: garlic powder, ground white pepper, hole cumin seeds, salt, cracked black pepper, red or green chili flakes (optional)
3 tablespoons of oil, divided - butter, olive oil, coconut oil, whatever you like
1/2 small (or 1/4 large head) of green cabbage, thinly sliced
1 cup of alliums, blend of your choice: chopped onion, minced shallot, thinly sliced leeks, chopped scallions
3 cups of greens, blend of your choice: lacinato kale, spinach, chard, dandelion greens, parsley, dill, mint, Thai basil, cilantro, mustard greens, carrot tops
For flavor, try to use at least 50% herbs!
Hardy, sturdy greens like kale or collards should be sliced as thinly as possible.
Instructions
Whisk together eggs, water, flour, baking powder, and spices with 1 tablespoon of oil (if using butter, melt it first) and set aside to rest.
In a large non-stick skillet, heat 1 tablespoon of oil over medium-high heat and arrange the shredded cabbage over the surface of the pan in an even layer. Season with a pinch or two of salt. Cook, stirring and spreading occasionally, until the cabbage has crisped browned edges, smells sweet and toasty, and is starting to turn tender, 7-10 minutes.
While the cabbage is cooking, toss together the alliums and greens in a large bowl until they are thoroughly blended. Pour the egg batter over the greens and fold until fully incorporated.
Once the cabbage has softened and browned, spread it once more into an even layer and reduce the heat to low. Drizzle over the remaining tablespoon of oil. Pour the egg-herb batter over the top of the cabbage and carefully spread it to the edges of the pan, taking care not to disturb the cabbage too much.
Note: if you’re spreading it out and worried that you don’t have enough egg batter, it’s ok: just quickly crack and whisk together another egg or two with a pinch of salt and pour those on top of the skillet as well. It’ll depend on the size of your pan and the choice/size of your greens, but if you think it needs a little more to cover the cabbage, it’s no big deal!
Cook for about 8 minutes, and then give the pan a shake: the omelet should slide in the pan (this is why we use a nonstick, here!). Slide the omelet out onto a cutting board or a large plate, and then carefully invert the hot pan over the omelet and flip everything over, so that you’ve flipped the omelet in the pan. It should now be brown-gorgeous-cabbage side up, herby-green-omelet side down. Raise the heat back up to medium-high, let it cook for 4-5 minutes more, then remove to a cutting board to cool.
Slice it into wedges, as you would a pizza, using a sharp knife (or a pizza cutter, who’s gonna stop you?).
Check out the intro for serving suggestions and myriad topping options.
Butterpat: the Holiday Potatoes Edition.
» Latkes, potato kugels, hashed browns, Funeral Potatoes or Party Potatoes (which are the same thing, ironically or perhaps not): there are lots of possibilities for shredded potatoes this weekend. If you’re needing an offering for a potluck or a dish to feed brunch to a crowd, consider any of them: they’re always crowd-favorites, they’re easy to prep (and prep ahead), and cheap.
» Whichever one strikes your fancy, consider making your life easier by eschewing the box-grater and showing your knuckles (and busy schedule) some love: try a julienne peeler, a mandoline, or a spiralizer instead - any of which will dispatch 10 pounds of potatoes in about a third of the time as manual grating.
» Not only will using one of those gadgets save you some time, you’ll also be rewarded with an improved final product: the long, lacy shreds give both the tender interiors and crispy exteriors of shredded-tater dishes a more pleasing texture.
» Avoid the dull dinginess of oxidized potatoes by soaking the shreds in a baking soda solution as soon as it has been shredded. Why baking soda instead of the more traditional acid bath? It accomplishes the same end - it keeps the potato from browning - while bringing two more tricks to the table: baking soda softens potatoes slightly by breaking down the pectin in potato cell walls, making for a dish that’s more tender and fluffy inside AND one that crisps faster on the outside, and (2) it lowers the pH of the potatoes, which allows the surface to achieve a deeper golden color in the oven. Just soak your potatoes in a solution of 1T baking soda per 3 quarts of water, drain, and rinse-and-swish the whole batch of shreds in cool water twice before drying well and finishing your recipe.